Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 7/16/2010
Distance: 32 nm
Sailed from: Pazar
Lat: 41° 24.6’N
Long: 41° 25.8’E

Shortly after arriving in the large but empty commercial harbor of Hopa, we had the Turkish Coast Guard stop by to check our papers and inquire of our plans. They notified the appropriate authorities on our behalf and arranged for the port management to fill our water tank. They also briefed us on the requirements for clearing out of Turkey and entering Georgia, a passage we planned to make on Sunday, 18 July, rather than tomorrow in hopes that the weather would improve. This is one of the rainiest parts of the Black Sea region, and the forecast was for rain and thunderstorms tonight and tomorrow. Continue reading Hopa, Turkey: An empty commercial port and a trucker’s border town →

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 7/15/2010
Distance: 24 nm
Sailed from: Rize
Lat: 41° 10.9’N
Long: 40° 54.5’E

The clouds began to build in the late afternoon, but the weather remained fair for our passage to Pazar today. We spotted a small waterspout to seaward, but it collapsed quickly into a rain cloud. Nevertheless, we were relieved once again to find a very good harbor at Pazar. We tied to the end of the fisherman’s quay and were greeted by the captain of the big fishing trawler nearby. He asked if we needed anything, so we asked if there was any water to fill our tank. Something must have been lost in the Turkish translation because he disappeared and returned with a dozen drinking water bottles. It was not exactly what we wanted, but a generous gift which we gladly accepted. Continue reading Pazar, Turkey: A double rainbow, cooler temperatures and another pleasant dinner ashore →

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 7/14/2010
Distance: 29 nm
Sailed from: Yeniyay
Lat: 41° 01.9’N
Long: 40° 30.9’E

Minutes after stepping ashore in Rize’s fishing harbor surrounded by tidy new boathouses, Lisa was handed a cell phone. “Hello, Welcome to Rize!” said the mystery man. He continued in perfect English, “Is there anything you need?”

Lisa replied, “No, everything is just fine.”

“I’ll be there in 15 minutes,” he said. The voice on the call was Hasan Tecimer, a retired local businessman, the son of a well-known fisherman from Rize and the current owner of the boathouse where Gyatso was moored. Continue reading Rise, Turkey: We’ll take a friendly fishing harbor over a yacht harbor any day! →

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 7/13/2010
Distance: 27 nm
Sailed from: Trabzon
Lat: 40° 55.3’N
Long: 40° 11.3’E

After ten days in Trabzon, it was nice to be underway again. Even though we didn’t have much wind, it was a good day for surveying five harbors along the way for the updated cruising guide. We were looking forward to ending the day in Yeniyay, the harbor that the previous cruising guide authors considered as their favorite in all of the Black Sea. Continue reading Yeniyay and Çamburnu, Turkey: A visit to KTU Marine Sciences Faculty and the Kastel of Sürmene →

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 7/03/2010
Distance: 16 nm
Sailed from: Akçakale
Lat: 41° 00.1’N
Long: 39° 46.9’E

We both found Trabzon to be a very interesting city. A major stop on the Silk Road, it’s long history as a cultural melting pot is still evident today. Oddly enough, our first stop was to the Forum, a large, modern shopping mall complete with high-end, international chain stores, including a Migros supermarket, and with a mix of Iranian, Arab and local clientele. Likewise, the old bazaar quarter in the city center is packed with similar clientele, many of whom are women with colorful, silk headscarves shopping for fine jewelry, exotic fabrics, and designer clothes. They come to Turkey for a dose of Western culture in an slamic nation that is less traditional than their own. Continue reading Trabzon, Turkey: Ancient history meets modern culture →

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 7/02/2010
Distance: 40 nm
Sailed from: Tirebolu
Lat: 41° 04.7’N
Long: 39° 30.4’E

We had a late start and a long day of motoring in flat calm conditions on the Black Sea with several harbors, both new and old, to survey along the way. This is why we were so relieved to find a new harbor in Akçakale, just five miles short of our intended destination of Akcaabat, as the sun sank over the horizon. We tied up to a large fishing trawler and were invited for dinner ashore, but we declined. It was early to bed for the crew of Gyatso. We wanted to get rested up for the final push to Trabzon tomorrow.

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 7/01/2010
Distance: 28 nm
Sailed from: Giresun
Lat: 41° 00.6’N
Long: 38° 49.0’E

In contrast to our wonderful visit to Giresun, we faced a day of overcoming obstacles on the Black Sea today. It started when we went to retrieve our anchor and found it snagged on a line attached to the bottom. We launched the dinghy and managed to get it untangled after about an hour of effort. And then a large piece of plastic debris got wrapped around the propellor — it had been hiding out just below the surface, so we didn’t even see it — bringing Gyatso to a halt while were were on passage to Tirebolu. Luckily, the dinghy was still in the water, and once again, it was Rinky to the rescue. We managed to get the plastic sheeting untangled and continue on our way. Continue reading Tirebolu, Turkey: Celebrating Turkey’s annual harbor festival →

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 6/29/2010
Distance: 29 nm
Sailed from: Ordu (Eferli)
Lat: 40° 55.1’N
Long: 38° 22.7’E

We had light winds and uncomfortable swell on the Black Sea today for our passage to Giresun. The swell was running so much that we actually bumped the sandy bottom at the silted entrance of one of the harbors we surveyed along the way. It made us all the more relieved to find the large and well protected harbor of Giresun waiting for us at the end of the day along with welcoming waves and helping hands of local sailors. Continue reading Giresun, Turkey: Cherries, hazelnuts, sunsets, sailing and new friends →