Passage through the Gulf of Corinth in Greece

Photo: Fishing boats in Galaxidhi, Greece. Credit: Lisa Borre.
Fishing boats in Galaxidhi, Greece. Photograph by Lisa Borre.

An easterly wind carried us through the Corinth Canal to Galaxidhi, the same port we visited three years ago. The wind shifted to the west the following day, so we waited for it to drop before continuing westward to pass under the Rion bridge and into the Gulf of Patras.We spent five days catching up on some work we brought along, taking leisurely strolls through town and enjoying seafood dinners in the local taverna.

In its heyday, Galaxidhi was a major shipbuilding center. Its rich maritime history continues today in the form of a small harbor for fishing boats and cruising yachts like ours. Continue reading Passage through the Gulf of Corinth in Greece

Mediterranean Monk Seal Pays a Visit in Kithnos

Mediterranean Monk Seal (Photo by the International Fund for Animal Welfare)
Mediterranean Monk Seal (Photo by the International Fund for Animal Welfare)

We had a surprise visitor to Gyatso after dinner last night: an endangered marine mammal rarely seen in the Aegean Sea. We had just returned from one of the local tavernas ashore: cuttlefish in wine sauce for David and a hearty vegetable soup for me. It was already dark, the only light coming from the street lamps on the quay where we were rafted off the British yacht, Stratagem. Luckily, I had only a sip of ouzo to drink before dinner with neighbors Sandra and Ray, or I might not have believed my eyes. Continue reading Mediterranean Monk Seal Pays a Visit in Kithnos

Underway through the Greek Islands

Photo: Nysiros, Greece. Credit: L. Borre.
Gyatso moored on the island of Nysiros, Greece. Photo by Lisa Borre.

We’ve been underway for just over a week and completed four passages as we island-hop our way through Greece. Although we are not in our usual leisurely cruising mode, we are quickly getting back into a routine of moving when the wind and weather allow.

Our days of open-ended cruising have come to an end, and the main purpose of this trip is to move Gyatso from point A (Marmaris, Turkey) to point B (Corfu, Greece). This requires a different mind set than when we were cruising full-time, one that has an end date looming in a matter of weeks, not months and years. We’re adjusting, but this early in the season, it is a real test in patience. Twice we’ve set out in hopes of making a passage but turned back when the conditions proved uncomfortable. We decided that we  were pushing the schedule too hard and have settled back into our tried-and-true approach of letting the weather dictate our movements.

Continue reading Underway through the Greek Islands

Preparing to Set Sail from Marmaris

Photo: stowing gear on a crushing sailboat.
Lisa stows gear in the port lazarette.

When it gets to this point with spring commissioning onboard Gyatso, David and I look at the “to do” list and prioritize based on one simple criteria: “Is it good enough to go sailing?” We just need to service two winches, stow some gear and return a borrowed bicycle for the answer to this question to be, “Yes!”

Later today, we’re planning to leave Marmaris Yacht Marina where we’ve been berthed for the last few weeks and move to an anchorage in Marmaris Bay to make an early departure Saturday morning. Gyatso will be sailing west to the Greek Islands. Our first planned stop is Symi, Greece. We hope to arrive in time to watch the super moon rise. Continue reading Preparing to Set Sail from Marmaris