İnebolu, Turkey: A traditional Turkish town with a modern commercial port

Photo: The view from the hillside above the harbor in Inebolu. Credit: Lisa Borre.
The view from the hillside above the harbor in Inebolu. Photo by Lisa Borre.

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 6/12/2010
Distance: 16.4 nm
Sailed from: Doğanyurt
Lat: 41° 58.8’N
Long: 33° 45.9’E

On the Black Sea, everyday brings something different in the docking department. After motoring the entire way from Doğanyurt today, we moored Gyatso alongside the north quay and just behind a freighter in İnebolu’s commercial harbor which gave us easy access ashore through a security gate. The commercial harbor sits on the east side of a steep bluff topped by traditional Ottoman-style houses. The houses are perched at the top of the hillside town which stretches along the coast to the west of the harbor. From the top of the hill, the town has beautiful views over the red tile rooftops down the coast. Along the shore, a long promenade includes ice cream and
pastry shops, cafes and mini-markets catering to summer visitors. Continue reading İnebolu, Turkey: A traditional Turkish town with a modern commercial port

Doğanyurt, Turkey: A big welcome in a tiny village

Photo: Market day in the small village of Doğanyurt. Credit: Lisa Borre.
Market day in the small village of Doğanyurt. Photo by Lisa Borre.

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 6/10/2010
Distance: 13.7 nm
Sailed from: Cide
Lat: 42° 00.7’N
Long: 33° 27.3’E

Today we made the short passage from Cide around Kerempe Burun, admiring the steep coastline, deeply cut valleys, and coves backed by sandy beaches and small villages scattered along the way. We also filmed a large brown plume of sediment-laden water from the river just west of Cide. The distinct area of brown water emptied into the sea and stretched for nearly two miles past Kopekkay Burnu. Eventually it was diluted and the water returned to its normal greenish-blue color. Dolphins and harbor porpoises continue to make regular appearances alongside Gyatso, although the latter remain shy and keep their distance. Continue reading Doğanyurt, Turkey: A big welcome in a tiny village

Cide (Karaağaç), Turkey: More pleasant than we expected

Photo: The large, nearly empty harbor of Cide. Credit: Lisa Borre.
The large, nearly empty harbor of Cide. Photo by Lisa Borre.

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 6/9/2010
Distance: 13.7 nm
Sailed from: Kurucasile
Lat: 41° 54.1’N
Long: 32° 59.0’E

We stopped in to Gideros Cove, one of the few natural harbors along the Turkish coast of the Black Sea which has been used since ancient times, but found that there was still too much northerly swell to make it a comfortable overnight stop. We stayed just long enough to get a sense of the place we had read so much about, but then we moved on to the large, constructed and much less intriguing harbor — at least according to our guidebooks — of Cide. Continue reading Cide (Karaağaç), Turkey: More pleasant than we expected

Kurucaşile, Turkey: A boat-building town

Photo: Kurucaşile is a boat-building town on the Black Sea coast. Credit: Lisa Borre.
Kurucaşile is a boat-building town on the Black Sea coast. Photo by Lisa Borre.

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 6/8/2010
Distance: 18.5 nm
Sailed from: Amasra
Lat: 41° 50.8’N
Long: 32° 43.3’E

We made a short hop of 18 nm today from Amasra to Kurucaşile and were joined for 15 minutes or so by a school of a dozen playful bottlenose dolphins. Lisa perched on the bowsprit to watch the show and to shoot some video footage. She was amazed to hear them making their squeaky calls to each other while they dove in and out of the bow wake. Continue reading Kurucaşile, Turkey: A boat-building town

Amasra, Turkey: It’s a small world

Photo: The colorful women's market in Amasra, Turkey. Credit: Lisa Borre.
The colorful women’s market in Amasra, Turkey. Photo by Lisa Borre.

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Dates: 6/6 – 6/8/2010
Distance: 26.5 nm
Sailed from: Filyos
Lat: 41° 44.8’N
Long: 32° 23.4’E

On passage from Filyos today, a thunderstorm with intense lightning chased us into the commercial and military harbor in Bartin which yachts are supposedly prohibited from entering. Thankfully, we weren’t chased away, and the authorities allowed us to tie-up alongside the commercial dock until the storm passed. Although we had to undergo careful scrutiny of our ship’s papers (everything was in order), it was much better than getting caught in a storm along this coast of the Black Sea. Continue reading Amasra, Turkey: It’s a small world

Filyos (Hisarönü), Turkey: A newly constructed harbor with ancient history

Photo: Filyos, Turkey on the Black Sea. Credit: Lisa Borre.
Gyatso at anchor in Filyos (Hisarönü) one of the many new harbors along the Turkish Black Sea coast. Photo by Lisa Borre.

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 6/5/2010
Distance: 39.3 nm
Sailed from: Ereğli
Lat: 41° 33.8’N
Long: 32° 01.3’E

The coast we sailed past today is coal mining country. It seems that it is also undergoing rapid change in other areas. Occasionally we found the water stained brown from the coal washing and active mining operations on land. A small bay described as a “hidden gem” ten years ago has been discovered and a large apartment building is under construction on the steep hillside above the popular sandy beach. Continue reading Filyos (Hisarönü), Turkey: A newly constructed harbor with ancient history

Ereğli, Turkey: A town with multiple personalities

Photo: The fishing harbor in Ereğli, Turkey. Credit: Lisa Borre.
The fishing harbor in Ereğli, Turkey. Photo by Lisa Borre.

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 6/4/2010
Distance: 22.3 nm
Sailed from: Akçacoka
Lat: 41° 17.1’N
Long: 31° 24.5’E

Looking out over the fishing harbor in Ereğli, you would never know that the largest steelworks in Turkey occupies the southern portion of the same port. With the prevailing northerly wind, the tidy town and beautifully landscaped waterfront seem quite removed from all of the industrial activity, except that it reflects the relative prosperity of this city on the Black Sea coast compared to others we have visited. Continue reading Ereğli, Turkey: A town with multiple personalities

Akçakoca, Turkey: Admiring the scenic and historic coastline

Photo: s/y Gyatso in Akcacoka, Black Sea, Turkey. Credit: Lisa Borre.
Gyatso moored in Akcacoka. Credit: Lisa Borre.

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 6/3/2010
Distance: 44 nm (+10 nm side trip to Kerpe)
Sailed from: Kefken Adasi to Akçakoca
Lat: 41° 05.4’N
Long: 31° 07.4’E

With a good forecast and less of the swell on the Black Sea this morning, we decided to back-track a few miles so that David could explore the coast between Kefken and Kerpe. He had a question in his mind about the exact location of ancient Kalpe, a place used by Xenophon and his band of 10,000 Greek soldiers in 400 B.C. Once the history research was complete, we resumed our voyage east. Kefken Adasi was abeam again by noon, and we motored all the way to Akçakoca, stopping in at one harbor along the way to gather updated pilotagecinformation. Continue reading Akçakoca, Turkey: Admiring the scenic and historic coastline

Kefken Adasi, Turkey: Paying tribute to Apollo

Photo: Kefken Adasi, Black Sea coast of Turkey. Credit: Lisa Borre.
This lighthouse, coast guard station and the two breakwaters extending south are the only structures on the tiny island of Kefken Adasi. Credit: Lisa Borre.

Black Sea Logbook Entry

Date: 6/2/2010
Distance: 4.3 nm
Sailed from: Kefken to Kefken Adasi
Lat: 41° 12.7’N
Long: 30° 15.5’E

Although full gales are rare in the Black Sea during the summer, we are expecting a few days of stronger (Force 6) winds. One of our cruising guides provides a list of dates in the ancient Coptic calendar because these windy days often arrive on the same dates every year. June 2nd is listed as “strong wind northerly” which makes it the third time since arriving in Istanbul last month that the old calendar has been right. By 6:00 a.m. the winds were blowing 20-25 knots from the northwest inside the harbor, so it must have been windier outside. Continue reading Kefken Adasi, Turkey: Paying tribute to Apollo