We had light winds and uncomfortable swell on the Black Sea today for our passage to Giresun. The swell was running so much that we actually bumped the sandy bottom at the silted entrance of one of the harbors we surveyed along the way. It made us all the more relieved to find the large and well protected harbor of Giresun waiting for us at the end of the day along with welcoming waves and helping hands of local sailors. Continue reading Giresun, Turkey: Cherries, hazelnuts, sunsets, sailing and new friends→
The relatively new fishing harbor of Ordu is located near the site of an anchorage used since ancient times and a short minibus ride into town. Photo by Lisa Borre.
What our guidebook called “Eferli” turned out to be the fishing harbor for Ordu, a place known since ancient times as having an anchorage for ships. We arrived at noon and were invited to tie alongside the fisherman’s quay in a space where a local motor yacht is kept. The owner of the yacht which was anchored in the harbor came by awhile later to let us know that we were most welcome to stay. He showed us where he kept his water hose which was an added bonus — we needed to fill our tank. Continue reading Ordu: Another quality harbor near a busy waterfront town→
Women making traditional Turkish snacks at a folklore festival near Jason’s church on the cape named in honor of the ancient legend of Jason and the Argonauts. Photo by Lisa Borre.
We tied alongside a big fishing trawler in the pleasant harbor of Yaliköy on a sunny Sunday morning. The fisherman were ashore busily preparing their nets for the upcoming season, so Lisa cut-up some watermelon and handed a tray to them which was received with many smiles. There was a knock on our hull about ten minutes later, and the tray was returned with a big chunk of chocolate hazelnut fudge. This was our first indication that we had ended up in a special place. Continue reading Yaliköy: A festive day at Jason’s Cape→
Our passage from Samsun to Ünye today was one of those days where we experienced first-hand what we call “cape effect” — by some magic of physics there is completely different weather on either side of a cape. Cam Burnu, a low-lying cape formed by the Yesilirmak River delta, is not as large as Bafra Burnu which we rounded on our way to Samsun. For that earlier 61 nm passage we had favorable wind and current. No such luck today — we set out in calm seas and light winds, but as soon as we rounded the cape, the wind and seas built quickly. Continue reading Ünye, Turkey: By bus to Terme, the land of the Amazons→
Samsun is home to one of the few harbors built primarily for yachts on the Turkish Black Sea coast. We steered through of a small fleet of Optimist dinghies practicing outside the harbor and tied alongside the quay at the Samsun Yelken Kulubu (Sailing Club). David went ashore to the office to register and to reserve a rental car for inland exploration. After three weeks on the Black Sea, it is a complete novelty to find a “real” marina with staff, water and electricity at the dock, and a nice bar and restaurant on the premises! He also met the president of the club along with some of the members who were gathered in his office on the premises, one of whom produced an electrical adaptor so we could plug-in to the two-prong 220V system. Continue reading Samsun, Turkey: A modern city, ancient Amisos and gateway to the Kisilirmak Delta→
Once again, we left a bit late to outrun the afternoon thunderstorms, and we were caught in squally conditions for about an hour. While trying to see our way through a downpour, we suddenly noticed a large structure on the water about a half-mile in front of us. For a moment, we thought it was another new harbor but we were too far from shore. We turned hard to port and passed to the north of what was in fact the first of three fish farms, none of which appear on the charts. We carefully noted their locations and continued on to Yakakent. Continue reading Yakakent, Turkey: A gorgeous sunset reminds us of the Great Lakes→
We didn’t know what we might find when arriving in Gerze’s harbor just before sunset this evening. The most recent guidebook we have onboard is 10-years out-of-date, and we didn’t have any notes about it from other cruisers who have visited the Black Sea in recent years. What we found was another excellent harbor in scenic surroundings. We also found what seemed like everyone in town out enjoying Saturday evening on the water. Boys were jumping off the high pier in the center of the harbor and showing off for the families out for a stroll along the waterfront. Men were fishing off the outer breakwater or from small boats just outside the harbor entrance. Several quayside bars, cafes and tea gardens were doing a booming business. Continue reading Gerze, Turkey: Passing an invisible threshold on the Black Sea→
On the short passage through the swell left behind from three days of strong northwesterly winds, we rolled out the Yankee and kept the engine on to help provide additional stability. As we rounded Boztepe Burnu, a large, rocky promontory, and headed for Sinop’s fishing harbor, the engine alarm began to sound. We checked the other gauges and the engine itself but couldn’t find any obvious problem, so we crossed our fingers, made for the harbor and tied up among the fishing boats as quickly as we could. Continue reading Sinop: The half-way point of our voyage on the Turkish Black Sea coast→
Today we rounded Inceburun, the Black Sea cape which forms the northernmost point in Turkey, just as the last of yesterday’s clouds lifted off to the northwest and gave way to hazy sunshine. A white lighthouse stands in contrast to the rocky coastline with its windswept vegetation and evergreen forest further inland. Like the north coast of Menorca in the Balearics of Spain, it is clear that this point of land takes a thrashing during winter’s northerly gales. Our cruising guide identifies this as one of the capes along the Turkish coast that “splits the wind” — it can blow in one direction on one side and in the opposite direction on the other side. Since we had very little wind, all we noticed was a nice lift from a 0.5 knot current flowing east. Several dolphins were feeding closer to shore. Continue reading Akliman: A natural harbor near the northernmost point of Turkey→
We made a relatively long passage today under hazy skies and little wind, stopping to see several harbors along the way. Shortly before rounding the small cape of Usta Burnu, it seemed as if the mountains ashore decided to release the thunder clouds which had been building throughout the afternoon. We arrived at the excellent harbor in the remote village of Çaylıoğlu and tied to the dock just as the wind picked up and it began to pour rain. The town seemed nearly deserted — you know you’re off the beaten path when a small herd of donkeys is there to greet you on the quay. Continue reading Çaylıoğlu, Turkey: A remote village where donkeys greet you at the quay→
