Pethi, Simi, Greece

Photo: Simi, Greece. Credit: L. Borre.
Gulets, traditional Turkish sailboats and the local charter boats in these waters, line the quay in Simi.

Logbook Entry

Dates: 09/30/09 – 10/01/09
Sailed from: Nísiros
Distance: 40 nm
Lat: 36°37’N
Long: 27°51.4’E

We’ve “cleared-out” of Greece here in Simi and are headed to Marmaris, Turkey tomorrow. Since we chose to anchor in this beautiful bay rather than taking a berth in the town of Simi, we had to make a bit more effort to complete exit formalities.

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Palon, Nísiros, Greece

Photo: Turkish coast. Credit: Lisa Borre.
The day after leaving Nísiros, we sailed along the Turkish coast to Simi. Credit: Lisa Borre.

Logbook Entry

Dates: 09/29/09 – 09/30/09
Distance: 42 nm
Sailed from: Astipalaia
Lat: 36°37’N
Long: 27°10.3’E

A fantastic sail today — a great end to the season!  Turkey is in sight, but we have one more planned stop in Greece before clearing into our fifth country this sailing season.

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Skala, Astipalaia, Greece

Photo: Hibiscus flowers in Greece. Credit: L. Borre.
While walking through town one day, we found a hibiscus in bloom which reminded us of one we used to have next to the front door of our house, except the one in Greece seemed more brilliant in the Mediterranean sun.

Logbook Entry

Dates: 09/25/09 – 09/29/09
Distance: 50 nm
Sailed from: Amorgos
Lat: 36°32.8’N
Long: 26°21.3’E

After a pleasant day motoring and sailing in light to no wind with the occasional rain shower, we tied-up alongside the ferry dock in Astipalaia with a fishing boat and several other yachts.  The ferry is not due in until 9:30 a.m., but we’re not on the part of the pier it uses.  This is a good thing because after two long days and 105 miles of sailing, we are ready for a day of rest.

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Katápola, Amorgos, Greece

Photo: Katapola, Amorgos, Greece. Credit: Lisa Borre.
The anchorage in Katápola on the island of Amorgos is adjacent to the small fishing harbor. Photo by Lisa Borre.

Logbook Entry

Dates: 09/24/09 – 09/25/09
Distance: 55 nm
Sailed from: Paroika, Paros
Lat: 36°49.7’N
Long: 25°51.7’E

The forecast was for 10-15 knots of wind, and we had hoped that by waiting until today, this would actually be the case.  The harbor in Paroika was completely calm, so we decided to get around the north side of the island before the wind picked up too much, but by the time we rounded the point and headed north, the wind was soon blowing 20-25 knots on the nose.  We managed to slowly make our way through the rough seas — the staysail is great for this job — and point our bow south through the channel between Paros and Naxos, the island to the east.  We had a great downwind run between the islands, admiring the rocky coastline and pretty little villages on either side.  Then we turned east, rounding the southern end of Naxos and snaking our way through some small islands before sailing on a reach for the final ten miles to Amorgos.  Except for struggling to make it around the north end of Paros, it was one of those great sailing days which made waiting in Paros for five days worth it.

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Paroika, Paros, Greece

Logbook Entry

Photo: Gyatso riding at anchor in Paroika, Paros, Greece. Photo by Lisa Borre.
Gyatso riding at anchor in Paroika, Paros. Photo by Lisa Borre.

Dates: 09/18/09 – 09/24/09
Distance: 44 nm
Sailed from: Kithnos
Lat: 37°05.6’N
Long: 25°09’E

A great sail in 12 knots of wind this morning before the wind dropped off, and then we motored or motor-sailed the rest of the way.  We anchored in the protected harbor of Paroika on the island of Paros, Greece and waited out a meltemi (north wind) for what turned out to be five days.  We arrived on a Friday, before the wind kicked up, but by Saturday night, both the marina and anchorage were filled with yachts seeking protection from the strong winds.

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Loutra, Kithnos, Greece

Photo: Tayana 37 Gyatso under sail in the Cyclades, Greece. Credit: Lisa Borre.
Gyatso under sail toward the Cyclades in light air in Greece.
Photo: Lisa Borre.

Logbook Entry

Dates: 09/17/09 – 09/18/09
Distance: 57 nm
Sailed from: Aigina
Lat: 37°26.5’N
Long: 24°25.6’E

Calm weather but unfortunately not much wind for the long passage to Kithnos today.  We found lots of charter boats in Loutra when we arrived, but the harbormaster managed to find space for us tied alongside the end of the pier and rafted off the stern of a big catamaran.

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Aigina, Greece

Photo: Fruit and vegetable market vendor in Aigina, Greece. Credit: L. Borre.
This is our kind of market! The fruit and vegetable venders in Aigina sell their products on the quay from caiques, traditional Greek fishing boats. Photo: Lisa Borre.

Logbook Entry

Dates: 09/16/09 – 09/17/09
Distance: 29 nm
Sailed from: Corinth
Lat: 37°44.4’N
Long: 23°25.7’E

We passed through the Corinth Canal and into the Aegean Sea today — a short-cut that saves five days of sailing at a time in the season when we really need it.  We’re making a beeline for Turkey — as much as this is possible in the Greek Islands — to find a winter home for Gyatso.  We didn’t mind that the weather was totally calm on this particular day.

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Corinth, Greece

Photo: Gyatso motoring in the Gulf of Corinth. Credit: Lisa Borre.
Gyatso motoring in haze and no wind the Gulf of Corinth. The sky and water appeared as one that day. Credit: Lisa Borre.

Logbook Entry

Dates: 09/14/09 – 09/16/09
Distance: 39 nm
Sailed from: Galaxidi
Lat: 37°56.5’N
Long: 22°56’E

Two nights we waited here for the Corinth Canal to re-open on Wednesday (closed on Tuesdays). Laundry is on the line and provisions are onboard.

On the first night, we took a berth along the fisherman’s quay because according to David, the friendly owner of Striding Edge, the British yacht next to us, “The fisherman say the boat that takes this spot is on the other side of the island for a few days.” He gave us his extra mooring line until we could get our own secured which was much easier than setting our anchor in the small, crowded harbor. We invited our neighbor aboard for a glass of wine or two, and then we all went out for Chinese food.  Although the food was rather ordinary, we all enjoyed the meal — Chinese food is something you don’t find very often in this part of the world!

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Galaxidi, Greece

Photo: Tayana 37 Gyatso tied alongside the town quay in Galaxidi, Greece. Credit: Lisa Borre.
Gyatso rides out a meltemi (northerly wind) while tied alongside the town quay in Galaxidi. Credit: Lisa Borre.

Logbook Entry

Dates: 09/10/09 – 09/14/09
Distance: 40 nm
Sailed from: Patras
Lat: 38°22.6’N
Long: 22°23’E

Both of us are having a hard time imagining that we are actually here in the Gulf of Corinth in Galaxidi, a small harbor just a short distance from Delphi, the place the ancient Greeks considered the center of the world.  After departing Patras this morning, we passed under the Rion Bridge and out of the Gulf of Patras.  We were not sorry to leave that stormy body of water.

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Patras, Gulf of Patras, Greece

Photo: The view from Petalas on our way to Patras, Greece. Credit: Lisa Borre.
The view from Petalas to the south — we watched a lightning show in the distant mountains later that night. Credit: Lisa Borre.

Logbook Entry

Dates: 09/07/09 – 09/10/09
Distance: 42 nm
Sailed from: Nisís Petalas
Lat: 38°15.6’N
Long: 21°44’E

Gyatso and crew were encrusted with salt spray by the time we arrived in Patras at 7:30 this evening. We spent the latter part of the day beating into 25-30 knots of wind with gusts to 35 and passing thunderstorms. The conditions didn’t quite match the forecast, but we’ve learned that anything can happen out here. We found a good visitors dock in the marina and after getting tied-up, we ate a light snack and relaxed in the cockpit — too tired to wash down the boat.

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