After spending most of the day in Bodrum, we left the dock at 2:30 p.m. and anchored three hours later in this quiet little fishing village on the Bodrum Peninsula which is slowly being taken over by tourism judging by the fish restaurants lining the shore and the grid of holiday homes being constructed on the surrounding hillsides. We’d already visited a historic site and eaten out once today (a döner kabob snack on the walk back from town), so we decided against going ashore to look for the ruins of ancient Myndos. We shared a bottle of wine and enjoyed leftovers onboard while watching two men fishing in a small boat off our stern instead. It seems that they were doing the same as us, except they had a few fishing lines in the water and were pulling in some small fish every now and then. Continue reading The quiet harbor of Gümüslük, Turkey→
Despite warnings from other cruising sailors who did not like the marina in Bodrum (mainly because it caters to charter yacht fleets and is therefore expensive), we decided to put in at the marina for a night anyways for the convenient access to shore. We arrived around noon after motoring from Knidos since there was no wind for sailing. Continue reading A glimpse at underwater archeology in Bodrum, Turkey→
We anchored in Büyük Limani harbor at Knidos on the western tip of the Datca Peninsula by late afternoon on our second day out from Marmaris. We rowed ashore to visit the ruins of ancient Knidos which are scattered around the surrounding hillsides. It must have been quite a place in its heyday, but now there is not even a modern-day town on the site which was famous for having been home to the first nude statue of a female figure: a marble statue of Aphrodite by Praxiteles. From our guidebooks, we also learned that this was the home of Eudoxos, one of the founders of Greek geometry. Continue reading Anchoring among ancient ruins in Knidos, Turkey→
Today we departed Marmaris and set sail for the 2010 cruising season. After two months of polishing, painting and varnishing to prepare Gyatso for another season, we don’t even mind the first spray of salty water over the bow. In fact it’s a real thrill because it means we’re off on another adventure. Continue reading We’re off to Dirsek, Turkey→
We’ve “cleared-out” of Greece here in Simi and are headed to Marmaris, Turkey tomorrow. Since we chose to anchor in this beautiful bay rather than taking a berth in the town of Simi, we had to make a bit more effort to complete exit formalities.
The forecast was for 10-15 knots of wind, and we had hoped that by waiting until today, this would actually be the case. The harbor in Paroika was completely calm, so we decided to get around the north side of the island before the wind picked up too much, but by the time we rounded the point and headed north, the wind was soon blowing 20-25 knots on the nose. We managed to slowly make our way through the rough seas — the staysail is great for this job — and point our bow south through the channel between Paros and Naxos, the island to the east. We had a great downwind run between the islands, admiring the rocky coastline and pretty little villages on either side. Then we turned east, rounding the southern end of Naxos and snaking our way through some small islands before sailing on a reach for the final ten miles to Amorgos. Except for struggling to make it around the north end of Paros, it was one of those great sailing days which made waiting in Paros for five days worth it.